Four categorized climbs, 3,800 metres of elevation, and a whole country camped out on the tarmac to watch it happen. But the real story wasn't only in the legs — it was on the roadside: campervans since dawn, flags, cowbells, brass bands, and rosé passed hand to hand. On the Col du Haag the crowd pressed in until there was barely a bike-width left, screaming riders up the final ramps like a carnival and a mountain stage at once.